Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Thursday 31 August 2017

Loire 2017 – some past harvest photos in anticipation

 Man in sombrero – picking in the Pays Nantais 

Picking Melon de Bourgogne – 2010

Dealing with Sauvignon Blanc @Vincent Grall's
garage winery in Sancerre 

Loïc Cailbourdin (Pouilly-Fumé) dealing with the press

Sorting table @ Bernard Baudry, Chinon

Wednesday 30 August 2017

Loire dates for your diary: Vignes Vins Randos 2017, Festivini 2017 (Saumur) + Translayon 2018



C'est parti ! L'aventure Vignes Vins Randos en Val de Loire revient pour une 14ème édition les 2 et 3 septembre 2017.

Après avoir accueilli près de 11 000 randonneurs en 2016, les vignerons vous attendent cette année pour de nouvelles balades savoureuses au cœur des vignes du Val de Loire.
En famille, entre amis ou en solo, l'équipe VVR vous propose de passer un moment de détente convivial en compagnie des vignerons du Val de Loire pour découvrir les magnifiques paysages de vignes et la richesse patrimoniale de la région.
Cette année, 15 randonnées sont proposées dans toute la vallée de la Loire : 8 le samedi et 7 le dimanche. 15 randonnées c’est autant d’appellations renommées et prestigieuses à découvrir ou à redécouvrir.
Muni du kit du randonneur et accompagné d’un vigneron venu partager sa passion et son savoir-faire, vous partez pour environ 3h de balade ponctuée de pauses gustatives et éducatives : dégustations de vins et de produits locaux, découverte du patrimoine local et du métier de vigneron… Une expérience humaine et sensorielle unique !
Vous pouvez également opter pour le parcours famille, d’une durée de 2 heures environ, adapté aux enfants avec découverte de la faune et de la flore, dégustation de jus de raisin, jeux...
Chaque année, les vignerons vous proposent une nouvelle animation pour plus de partage et de convivialité : land art, démonstration culinaires, yoga du rire… Pour en savoir plus sur l’animation de cette année, cliquez sur Nouveautés 2017!
A l’arrivée, le village VVR propose diverses animations qui raviront petits et grands randonneurs. Vous y trouverez des offres de restauration, des jeux pour enfants, des artisans de bouche et une vente de vins, le tout dans une ambiance conviviale et festive assurée par un groupe de musique. Vous pouvez également apporter votre pique-nique pour vous restaurer sur le village.
Pour rester informé, inscrivez-vous à notre newsletter et suivez-nous sur les réseaux sociaux !

More details here in French and here in English:  


Vignes Vins Randos in the Loire Valley 

Let's go! The adventure Vignes Vins Randos comes back for a 14th edition on the 2nd and 3rd September 2017

After last year's successful thirteenth edition, winemakers are waiting for you with new tasty walks in the heart of the Loire Valley vineyards. 

With family, friends or solo, spend quality time in the company of the Loire Valley winemakers. You will discover beautiful vineyard landscapes and the diversity of the Loire Valley heritage. 

This year, 15 walks are available in the whole Loire Valley : 8 on Saturday, 7 on Sunday. 15 walks, it’s as many renowned and prestigious appellations to discover or to rediscover. 

Supplied with a "hiker kit" and accompanied by a winemaker willing to share with you his passion and expertise, go for a 3 hours walk punctuated by pauses: tastings of local products and wines, discovery of local heritage and of winemakers’ work... A unique human and sensory experience! 

On arrival, the village VVR offers you the possibility to continue your day in a festive and warm atmosphere. Refreshments will be available, as well as local food on some of the appellations. The wines tasted during your trail will be on sale on a wine’s market. Wooden toys and games or inflatable structure will be available for young and young at heart, with live music to add a note of harmony to the party atmosphere.


***

Festivini – the 8th edition from 2nd - 10th September



Contact details: tel: 02.41.51.16.40    email: contact@festivini.com

Further details here: http://www.festivini.com/

***




Bookings for the 2018  edition are now being taken: Les inscriptions sont clôturées pour 2017 car le nombre maximum de participants est atteint mais nous vous invitons à vous préinscrire pour 2018 pour recevoir en priorité les informations concernant l’inscription à la 10ème édition de la TRANSLAYON.

Details of the Translayon and how to sign up are here.

Tuesday 29 August 2017

MUSCADET : le ban des vendanges prononcé le mercredi 30 août 2017


L, Premier Jour 25 Août 1989, 
Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine 
Louis Métaireau 

Harvesting Melon de Bourgogne: September 2010

2017 Muscadet harvest can start tomorrow  
The 2017 harvest for Muscadet producers will officially start tomorrow – 30th August. Although an August start is still unusual for the harvest in the Pays Nantais, this is by no means the earliest beginning of the harvest. 

The earliest dates since 1981 are 19th August – 2003, 24th August - 2011, 25th August – 1989, 29th August – 1990, 1995 and 1997. In contrast 2013 was the latest recent start of the Muscadet harvest with the Ban des Vendanges issued  on 23rd September.  

In 1989 Louis Métaireau made a marvellous Première Vendange on 25th August.

     


Press release from the Fédération des Vins de Nantes : 


MUSCADET : le ban des vendanges prononcé le mercredi 30 août 2017

La Fédération des Vins de Nantes (1), propose, à l’Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, le ban des Vendanges du Muscadet le mercredi 30 août 2017. Après une seconde récolte successive déficitaire, les Vignerons de Nantes vont pouvoir officiellement démarrer les vendanges de Muscadet dans d’excellentes conditions avec un millésime en faible quantité mais qui devrait se révéler très qualitatif. 

Suite aux contrôles de maturité coordonnés par la Fédération qui servent d’indicateurs sur l’équilibre entre le sucre et l’acidité du raisin et évaluent l’état sanitaire du vignoble, les premiers coups de sécateurs seront autorisés, par arrêté préfectoral, pour les vins d’AOC Muscadet à partir du mercredi 30 aout 2017.


Dès le début de l’année 2017, les températures hivernales de janvier et février ont favorisé un bon repos végétatif des vignes. La fin d’hiver et le début du printemps furent marqués par un déficit de la pluviométrie. Le mois de mars, doux et sec a permis un départ rapide et homogène de la végétation, phénomène accru par des sols bien ressuyés. Le débourrement moyen (ouverture des bourgeons) a donc été observé au 24 mars. La fin du mois d’avril a malheureusement vu une vague de froid touchant le territoire français impactant également une partie du vignoble de Nantes. Le beau temps est revenu mi-mai et la pleine fleur fut observée aux alentours du 28 mai. Par la suite, soleil et chaleur se sont installés durablement pour des mois de juin et juillet exceptionnels. Ces conditions ont favorisé une belle avancée de la végétation et un état sanitaire remarquable. Le mois d’août a connu un climat plus couvert mais avec assez peu de précipitations, lesquelles furent néanmoins bienvenues compte-tenu de la sécheresse des sols.
 
Comme habituellement, le Muscadet et son cépage unique, le Melon de Bourgogne, est la première AOC du Val de Loire à vendanger. Un débourrement précoce et homogène, suivi d’un été globalement chaud et sec, ont favorisé un millésime particulièrement précoce (proche de 1995 et 1997) et un état sanitaire exceptionnel dans les vignes. En dépit du gel de printemps qui a frappé sévèrement certains secteurs entraînant des rendements faibles (en moyenne plus de 40% de perte), la maturité des raisins a progressé de façon régulière. Selon Christian Gauthier, Président de la Fédération « la vendange promet une grande qualité des raisins gorgés de sucre assurant ainsi l’élaboration de vins frais et fruités, représentatifs de nos appellations. »


(1) La Fédération des vins de Nantes, créée en 2014, est un syndicat qui regroupe les trois Organismes de Défense et de Gestion (ODG) des AOC du vignoble de Nantes (Muscadet, Gros Plant du Pays Nantais et Coteaux d’Ancenis).
 

Elle regroupe plus de 500 exploitations revendiquant près de 450 000 HL de vins AOC couvrant un territoire d’environ 9000 hectares sur trois départements (Loire-Atlantique, Maine et Loire et Vendée).

Son rôle est de défendre, gérer et promouvoir les vins AOC de Nantes. 


•••

Early start elsewhere in the Loire
Picking Chenin for sparkling wine can start from tomorrow. I assume this will be mainly in Anjou-Saumur and that the start of picking Chenin for still wines will be some time away. 

Picking for Touraine Sauvignon will start around 4th September.     
 

Monday 28 August 2017

Scotland’s larder fills up as does its drinks cabinet

View from the Badachro Inn 
looking towards Gairloch  




Ever since 2011 we have been spending all or a substantial part of August in Scotland. Mainly in Newtonmore in the Cairngorms but always with a week away on the road every year. This has taken us to the Outer Hebrides, Orkney, John O’Groats and the islands of Skye, Mull and Islay.

The scenery, of course, particularly on the West Coast, is very often spectacularly breathtaking. The weather can either be wonderfully magical lighting up the landscape, in particular long views over ranges of mountains or chains of islands stretching out into the far distance. It can also be spectacularly wild and foul - high winds and long periods of rain. The 60 hours of rain on Islay last year will remain etched on my memory for many years to come.

I have posted on a number of occasions about the renaissance of Scottish food. It is now possible to eat well widely in Scotland with the country’s produce celebrated whether it is from the sea or the land. It is not just at luxury establishments like Fonab Castle, where we were for a couple of nights last week and where you would expect to eat well, but in many other more modest establishments that serve excellent food.

On a day trip to Orkney last Friday we each enjoyed a very tasty bowl of seafood chowder  at the Ferry Inn at Stromness that included a very generous portion of smoked haddock. This chowder was a creamier version of Cullen Skink, a traditional hearty Scottish soup, made with smoked haddock and potato. It is almost a meal in itself and certainly ideal for a light lunch.

Lentil soup is another popular and traditional dish and again a good lunchtime option. We stopped for a Sunday lunchtime snack at Balnakeil near Durness, the small town on Scotland’s north west coast and closest to Cape Wrath. Balnakeil was once a military establishment but has now become a craft village. We had an excellent lentil soup at The Whale Tale, a new and very welcoming café that only opened in April of this year. This came with good bread, which is another sign of the change. Increasingly cafés and restaurants either make their own bread or source good locally made bread. Cheese scones, which can be delicious, are also often served with soup.

Fish and chips remains a popular option - either cod or haddock. We have had some delicious examples on our current tour around the north of Scotland following the North Coast 500, the now popular 500-mile round trip around the northern mainland of Scotland that starts and finishes in Inverness. Most visitors go clockwise round the circuit, while we opted to go round anti-clockwise so didn’t have to follow too many camper vans. Examples include a very fresh fish fried while we waited in a friendly chippy in Thurso and very good haddock at the Seaview Hotel at John O’Groats.

Most of our 2017 stay was at in one of the well-equipped cabins at Natural Retreats at John O’Groats. My friend and frequent commentator, Luc Charlier, will be interested to know that there is good cycling to be had up here on mainly very quiet roads. On Sunday, however, we moved on westwards to Gairloch going along the stunning north and then down the north west coast. 



Here we stayed at Easan Beag, an excellent bed and breakfast run by Louise and George Mackenzie. They were very welcoming, the accommodation very comfortable and reasonably priced. Easan Beag is very certainly recommended if staying at this attractive bay resort.

That night we ate well at the Badachro Inn, just across the bay from our accommodation but a nine-mile drive around the bay to get to the inn. However, It was worth the journey - yet another example of the plenitude of good places to eat now in Scotland.  

 Starter: Loch Fyne smoked mussels 

Starter: duo of salmon – hot smoked and smoked

 Fillets of sea bass 

Roasted cod 

 List of special dishes 

Wine list with a selection from around the world


It is interesting to see that this renaissance of Scottish food not only celebrates the wonderful seafood from around the Scottish coast as well as the fine beef and lamb but traditional dishes such as haggis and black pudding are treated with respect and often given a new treatment. Deep fried Mars Bars, however, remains out in the cold. 

Rock Rose Gin 

As well as its interesting wine list Badachro distills its own artisan gin, which is sold in the inn. This is another facet of the revival of interest food and drink in Scotland with gin and beer leading the charge.  Distilling gin and brewing beer is increasingly common Scotland as it is the rest of the UK. At the Seaview Hotel in John O’Groats CRM took the Rock Rose, which is distilled at Dunnet Bay Distillery  a little further west down the coast. This distillery was commissioned on 21st August 2014. It also distils vodka and for both uses locally sourced botanticals. Rock Rose Gin is now available from the Co-op in Newtonmore at £34.99.

Staying at John O’Groats the old fire station has been turned into a brewery – John O'Groats Brewery. I enjoyed a couple of pints of their Duncansby, an attractively hoppy amber beer named after nearby Duncansby Head, the most north-eastern point of mainland Scotland.   

It is no wonder Scotland is attracting many visitors this year – those from mainland Europe benefitting from a very favourable exchange rate due to the idiocies of Brexit.





Sunday 27 August 2017

Lotte Glob – amazing ceramist


On our way from John O'Groats to Gairloch today we stopped off at Lotte Glob's amazing gallery – full of lovely and unique ceramics. Understandably some have prices to match the quality and imagination shown in the work. 

Her gallery is in Laid on the North Coast of Scotland not far from Durness with stunning views across Loch Eriboll.











Saturday 26 August 2017

Double standards over motorists and cyclists


363 Bus attempted dangerous overtake 
while advertising Ride London

The Charlie Alliston case has provoked much comment as well as driving some motorists hysterical. Given that this case is unusual it is not surprising that it has created interest. However, this cannot justify the hysterical reaction against cyclists and cycling. 

Of course cyclists like any other road user much obey the laws but there is clear evidence that motorists are too often treated with undue leniency for dangerous and reckless driving. Any road death is regrettable and terrible for the victim's family and friends but the number of deaths caused by cycles is tiny compared to the number killed by motorists. 

The terrible crash today on the M1 with eight killed in a mini-bus collision involving two lorries ought to bring a sense of proportion to the debate. 

'Eight dead in M1 minibus and lorry crash'

According to BBC the two lorries drivers have been arrested for possible 'dangerous driving' with one driver possible over the alcohol limit. 

Here are two very good blogs on the Alliston case from the The Road Danger Reduction Forum

The Alliston case: after the verdict

The previous post has had more views than any other in our history. We have received significant support for its content in comments and on Twitter, and also – as one must expect in the age of social media – abuse and insult. Although readers will judge for themselves, it is striking how the insults have been based on a lack of evidence and – above all – misreading of what the piece was about.
So, to repudiate the insults, let’s clarify what the piece was – and more importantly was not – about. We can then move on to an assessment of where we are now after an extraordinary week.

The piece was written before the verdict in the trial of Mr Charles Alliston. This meant we could not legally comment on whether he was guilty of the offences he was charged with. One accusation made on twitter ( from Richard Williams‏ @richw1986 ) was that “Moreover – my point is more that by trying to defend a guy who doesn’t deserve it you’re not encouraging sympathy toward cyclists who do imo”. As I replied, “There is not one single thing in my piece which tries to defend him or his actions.”


Read the rest here from The Road Danger Reduction Forum. 

Eight dead in M1 minibus and lorry crash

Friday 25 August 2017

Busy day on Orkney + meal @Seaview in John O'Groats

Public Bar @Seaview Hotel, John O'Groats 

Long day on Orkney – photos to follow. Back in John O'Groats in time for a relaxed dinner at the Seaview Hotel in John O'Groats. The bar boasts 100 different whiskies and a large selection of gins including Rock Rose, which is locally distilled at Dunnet. 

Photos of Orkney to be added.    

Thursday 24 August 2017

Cycling on the open roads of Caithness



Today in contrast to yesterday was a lovely fine day in the eastern part of Caithness, although towards the west there were persistent stormy showers. Definitely time to get out of the bike. I did a very enjoyable 60-mile circuit from John O'Groats along largely deserted roads – many of them very straight.  

My route from John O'Groats took me via Canisbay to Lyth onto Watten then Westerdale onto the railway station at Scotscalder to northward to Thurso and the final 20 miles back to John O'Groats via Castletown.  

Caithness' open country on the way to Lyth
Straight and deserted roads 
– heading to Lyth

Loch Watten
Bright sunshine in the east but stormy showers in the west

Water mill by the River Thurso
@Westerdale

Contend SL by the River Thurso

 Looking north: headed to Thurso in bright sunshine

Taken at same time above – very different outlook!
The road away from Thurso

Wednesday 23 August 2017

High summer @ John O'Groats

Today it is unmanned and runs automatically

Staying for five nights at the Natural Retreats at John O'Groats.The wet and windy weather during from mid-morning through to early afternoon illustrated the potential harshness of the climate up here even during summer. Despite the weather we ventured up to Duncansby Head for a short walk. Duncansby Head is the most north easterly point of mainland Scotland.   


Plaque showing the Pentland Firth between 
Duncansby Head and the Orkneys.
The Pentland Firth is a busy but potentially dangerous 
channel between the Atlantic and the North Sea

Looking westwards towards John O'Groats 

There are fine views across from Duncansby Head 
across to the Orkneys
(above and below)


Signpost to the Stacks

The Stacks of Duncansby