In the footsteps of the distinguished Tom C – dinner at Sandeman Room, Fonab Castle

 A glass of Don Fino Sherry from Sandeman in

the Fonab Bar to start the evening

We spent a great weekend at Fonab Castle on the outskirts of Pitlochry as my pre-birthday treat. Saturday night we were in Sandeman Room where we were expertly looked at after by James Payne, the maître d'hôtel at Fonab and responsible for the wine. I first met James back in the 1990s when he was at Pont de la Tour. From time to time sommeliers get a bad press for being arrogant. This certainly does not apply to James: he is a very good one  – very relaxed, very professional and knowledgeable and not at all intimidating. 

James Payne with the Sandeman 1982 Vintage Port 

Dinner in the Sandeman Room is a set menu – we also decided to go for the flight of recommended wines. We learned during dinner that we had the same table as the Scottish legend Tom Cannavan (Wine Pages).  

Tom Cannavan on a barrel throne in Chile 

The amuse bouche which included 

some foie gras and roasted apricot 

2016 Bone Dry, Van Buhl

Trocken, Pfalz 

(above and below)

Some grassy Sauvignon Blanc like – notes 

crisp acidity

Consomme – chicken, truffle and tarragon
– being poured over the ravioli

Character Amontillado Sherry, Sandeman
James' choice with the consommé

Scottish Salmon –
Confit of pink citrus - fennel - cucumber

There is almost always a dish that we forget to 
photograph before we are halfway through the dish 

The 2014 Astolabe Chenin Blanc, Wrekin Vineyard, 
Marlborough (NZ) was matched with the salmon 
Tasted on its own the Chenin has a delicately 
attractive character with interesting floral notes.
Unfortunately the sweetness in the salmon as well as the cucumber 
overpowers the Chenin – hiding the fruit while accentuating the acidity

Lamb 

2009 Ampodium, Côte Rotie, Domaine Rostaing
James kindly added this into our flight 
Lovely, sensuous and complex Côte Rotie
Kept under Coravin and first broached 
some five weeks ago 
Was a great match with the rare filet of lamb

2014 Vinha Grande, Douro
Still youthful and quite tannic but came into 
its own with the slow cooked lamb 

Pre-dessert
this fruit based  pre-dessert 
was a fine foil for the 2015 Vouvray Moelleux
from Vigneau Chevreau
(below)

Panna Cotta 
Lavender – textures of strawberry
 

The Panna Cotta needed something richer and 
more powerful than the Vouvray, 
which the 2015 Kika Noble late harvest Chenin Blanc
from Miles Mossop Wines in Stellenbosch  

Birthday chocs

All in all this was an excellent and very enjoyable meal – the high point of a great weekend stay at Fonab Castle, a wonderful place for a pampered few days away.